Edward Enninful reflects on Today's Society: 'A Decline in Tolerance' Compared to the Nineties.
An unexpected discovery while riding the tube in 1988 changed forever the path of a young Ghanaian immigrant to Britain. Discovered for modeling, Edward Enninful was rapidly ushered into the London's vibrant 1990s creative scene, progressing from model to stylist and, before turning twenty, becoming the style editor of the iconic i-D.
"That time was the zenith of the Young British Artists – Tracey Emin, Jay Jopling. I encountered Kate Moss at a casting," he remembers. "Then I met Naomi for a cover, and I knew we’d be close. We all mixed across disciplines. Friday rolled into Saturday into Sunday. I miss that rawness."
While Enninful may seem nostalgic, he is far from alone. Recently, a longing look back of the 1990s has reached fever pitch. But since that time, Enninful believes a profound shift. "In my view, we’re less tolerant now than we were in the 90s," he says. "The issue extends beyond this country – it’s everywhere."
A Perceived Regression
This shift is difficult to overlook: the resurgence of nationalist groups, the reaction against so-called "wokeness", and the reinforcement of Eurocentric beauty standards. In place of the hope of the late 90s, currently a different political force appears as a potential leader. Furthermore, the British flag, once an badge of cultural optimism, has sparked debate once more.
In Enninful's view, the response has always been to promote culture in all its variety. This was the driving force behind his seminal issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a celebration of modern Britain, showcasing a broad spectrum of prominent faces from politics.
"People with a voice should employ it," he comments, discussing those publishing choices. "There is much discussion about immigration; I wouldn't be here if Britain were not a open country, if it hadn't given my family a refuge and an opportunity. That’s the Britain I always loved. I believe this period will pass."
A New Wave of Consciousness
He draws solace in the youth of today: "They’re much more aware than we were. They talk about systemic issues – I was not even aware what that was."
His formative years would shape a pioneering career built on boldness and inclusivity. Enninful made history as the first man, first Black editor, first gay man, and first disabled gay man of colour to assume the editorship at British Vogue. His time featured historic front pages showcasing models of colour, curvy models, an octogenarian, and people from varied communities. Importantly, sales grew.
"To overlook huge sections of the population, it’s more than that you’re failing to represent – it’s bad for business," he states.
Launching a Creative Venture
He has established his new venture EE72 and its flagship publication, 72, his premier initiative since departing his previous role. He says he wants to continue being a "innovator".
"I’ve always questioned the established norms. I was brought up in a place where Black professionals were the norm – the physicians, the attorneys, the president. Then we arrived in England, without funds, and I found myself on the margins. I was painfully reserved. My teachers predicted I’d achieve nothing. Me and my brothers were stopped by the police the Sus laws … those experiences gave me a dual identity between worlds."
Contrary to the stereotype of industry figures as brash and temperamental, Enninful is softly spoken and exudes calm. His path has not been immune to adversity, including publicly shared periods of depression and addiction.
He has also undergone significant health issues, having undergone several surgeries on his eyes, leading to limited vision. "I endured such a dark place for two years, away from work, terrified I was going to go blind. It’s comparable to PTSD; you just exist in a state of dread 24/7. I thought, if this ever passes, I’m just going to embrace every opportunity that I was so scared to do. I’m not going to restrict myself to just being an editor or a figure in fashion."
Curating a Cultural Era
This drive to be defined narrowly has led him away from the world that made his name. He is now organising a significant 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, showcasing work by a roster of influential artists and photographers from the era. The show, he says, aims to capture the decade's creative cross-pollination – and highlight those who did not receive adequate attention at the time.
"Galleries sometimes neglected to promote the most relevant talents because they weren't of the traditional credentials," he states.
This venture itself operates on a different strategy, rejecting traditional advertising in favour of partnership-based projects. "Our approach is, what can we create collaboratively? Is it an event, a podcast? The magazine is a piece within a greater ecosystem."
Looking Forward Without Fear
Today, Enninful is regarded as one of the world's most respected cultural influencers. His story, he states, is a testament to the power of pursuing your passions.
What would the Enninful of that era think of the Edward of today? He smiles. "He would be astonished, but he’d be impressed. At that time I was sceptical of institutions. I never imagined institutions like Tate were a place for someone like me."
He reflects. "Nothing is assumed. We fled, we left our homeland. I came close to losing my vision. So fear is not a factor. People have counted me out my entire life. But nothing can stop me once I’ve made up my mind to do something."
